Beginnings



Gandhi statue "Salt March" at Marina Beach



Well, I lost a day literally and figuratively. I thought it was Thursday when in fact it was Friday! 

I found myself periodically thinking, “I’m in India!” only to then think, “But it seems so normal that I’m here!” I was nonplussed by the two thoughts occupying my mind from time to time. I left my hotel yesterday and started walking. No place in particular in mind. As I walked, I found myself going through an impromptu checklist – “Oh, yeah. There’s a horrible smell. Check. Cow eating from the garbage. Check. 5 million horns honking unnecessarily. Check. 5 people in a parking lot directing a private car to park each with their own specific job. Check. “

At one point, the list stopped and I found myself walking. Just walking.  Marina Beach, a popular place for families and college students,  was up ahead and so I had some place to go. Swimming is actually prohibited at this “beach” as the current is too dangerous. It is a great spot to look out at the ocean, however. Many of the fishermen who live along the beach lost their lives during the tsunami of 2004.

I was really nervous about returning to India after so many years. I hadn’t anticipated that things would normalize with me so quickly upon my return. I couldn’t even pay the 20 rupees (Rs.) extra that the rickshaw driver wanted for a trip to Spencer Plaza. I have traveled that route too many times in the past and argued with drivers over the correct rate. Before hailing the driver, I told myself that I should just pay whatever fare he asked as it was my first day in India and I could certainly afford the fare. However, when the moment arrived, normative structures flexed and directed my culturally appropriate and expected behavior to demand the “ka rect rate.”

Chennai rickshaw drivers are notorious for never using their meters and for demanding of everyone – even locals – higher rates. I used to get really angry as I would feel cheated and singled out as an outsider but I’ve learned not to take it personally (since they did this to everyone!) and to see it as an illustration of market forces in action. I will pay what I can afford and he will accept what he can afford to accept.  Supply and demand.  (I paid Rs. 80 to go to Spencer Plaza and Rs. 150 to go home!) Same distance! Of course, the heat and Kipling's advice ("Now India is a place beyond all others where one must not take things too seriously--the midday sun always excepted,") played a role in my decision to pay a higher fare.

All in all it was a good first day. I woke up at the appropriate time and had a hearty Tamil breakfast. Walked to the beach. Took a rickshaw to the mall to get a SIM/local number for my mobile. Had dinner and went to bed by midnight exhausted and more importantly - healthy!